(b) These guides apply to persons, partnerships, or corporations, at every level of the trade (including but not limited to manufacturers, suppliers, and retailers) engaged in the business of offering for sale, selling, or distributing industry products.

Note to paragraph (b):  To prevent consumer deception, persons, partnerships, or corporations in the business of appraising, identifying, or grading industry products should utilize the terminology and standards set forth in the guides.

(c) These guides apply to claims and representations about industry products included in labeling, advertising, promotional materials, and all other forms of marketing, whether asserted directly or by implication, through words, symbols, emblems, logos, illustrations, depictions, product brand names, or through any other means.

It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the type, kind, grade, quality, quantity, metallic content, size, weight, cut, color, character, treatment, substance, durability, serviceability, origin, price, value, preparation, production, manufacture, distribution, or any other material aspect of an industry product.

  If, in the sale or offering for sale of an industry product, any representation is made as to the grade assigned the product, the identity of the grading system used should be disclosed.

To prevent deception, any qualifications or disclosures, such as those described in the guides, should be sufficiently clear and prominent. Clarity of language, relative type size and proximity to the claim being qualified, and an absence of contrary claims that could undercut effectiveness, will maximize the likelihood that the qualifications and disclosures are appropriately clear and prominent.

It is unfair or deceptive to use, as part of any advertisement, packaging material, label, or other sales promotion matter, any visual representation, picture, televised or computer image, illustration, diagram, or other depiction which, either alone or in conjunction with any accompanying words or phrases, misrepresents the type, kind, grade, quality, quantity, metallic content, size, weight, cut, color, character, treatment, substance, durability, serviceability, origin, preparation, production, manufacture, distribution, or any other material aspect of an industry product.

  An illustration or depiction of a diamond or other gemstone that portrays it in greater than its actual size may mislead consumers, unless a disclosure is made about the item's true size.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-made or hand-wrought unless the entire shaping and forming of such product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape, design, and finish of each part of each individual product.

Note to paragraph (a):  As used herein, "raw materials" include bulk sheet, strip, wire, and similar items that have not been cut, shaped, or formed into jewelry parts, semi-finished parts, or blanks.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-forged, hand-engraved, hand-finished, or hand-polished, or has been otherwise hand-processed, unless the operation described was accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the type, amount, and effect of such operation on each part of each individual product.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the presence of gold or gold alloy in an industry product, or the quantity or karat fineness of gold or gold alloy contained in the product, or the karat fineness, thickness, weight ratio, or manner of application of any gold or gold alloy plating, covering, or coating on any surface of an industry product or part thereof.

(b) The following are examples of markings or descriptions that may be misleading:

 (1) Use of the word "Gold" or any abbreviation, without qualification, to describe all or part of an industry product, which is not composed throughout of fine (24 karat) gold.

(2) Use of the word "Gold" or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product composed throughout of an alloy of gold, unless a correct designation of the karat fineness of the alloy immediately precedes the word "Gold" or its abbreviation, and such fineness designation is of at least equal conspicuousness.

(3) Use of the word "Gold" or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product that is not composed throughout of gold or a gold alloy, but is surface-plated or coated with gold alloy, unless the word "Gold" or its abbreviation is adequately qualified to indicate that the product or part is only surface-plated.

(4) Use of the term "Gold Plate," "Gold Plated," or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product unless such product or part contains a surface-plating of gold alloy, applied by any process, which is of such thickness and extent of surface coverage that reasonable durability is assured.

(5) Use of the terms "Gold Filled," "Rolled Gold Plate," "Rolled Gold Plated," "Gold Overlay," or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product unless such product or part contains a surface-plating of gold alloy applied by a mechanical process and of such thickness and extent of surface coverage that reasonable durability is assured, and unless the term is immediately preceded by a correct designation of the karat fineness of the alloy that is of at least equal conspicuousness as the term used.

(6) Use of the terms "Gold Plate," "Gold Plated," "Gold Filled," "Rolled Gold Plate," "Rolled Gold Plated," "Gold Overlay,'' or any abbreviation to describe a product in which the layer of gold plating has been covered with a base metal (such as nickel), which is covered with a thin wash of gold, unless there is a disclosure that the primary gold coating is covered with a base metal, which is gold washed.

(7) Use of the term "Gold Electroplate," "Gold Electroplated," or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product unless such product or part is electroplated with gold or a gold alloy and such electroplating is of such karat fineness, thickness, and extent of surface coverage that reasonable durability is assured.

(8) Use of any name, terminology, or other term to misrepresent that an industry product is equal or superior to, or different than, a known and established type of industry product with reference to its gold content or method of manufacture.

(9) Use of the word "Gold" or any abbreviation, or of a quality mark implying gold content (e.g., 9 karat), to describe all or part of an industry product that is composed throughout of an alloy of gold of less than 10 karat fineness.

The provisions regarding the use of the word "Gold," or any abbreviation, as described above, are applicable to "Duragold," "Diragold," "Noblegold," "Goldine," "Layered Gold," or any words or terms of similar meaning.

(c) The following are examples of markings and descriptions that are consistent with the principles described above:

(1) An industry product or part thereof, composed throughout of an alloy of gold of not less than 10 karat fineness, may be marked and described as "Gold" when such word "Gold," wherever appearing, is immediately preceded by a correct designation of the karat fineness of the alloy, and such karat designation is of equal conspicuousness as the word "Gold" (for example, "14 Karat Gold," "14 K. Gold," or "14 Kt. Gold"). Such product may also be marked and described by a designation of the karat fineness of the gold alloy unaccompanied by the word "Gold" (for example, "14 Karat," "14 Kt.," or "14 K.").

Note to paragraph (c)(1):  Use of the term "Gold'' or any abbreviation to describe all or part of a product that is composed throughout of gold alloy, but contains a hollow center or interior, may mislead consumers, unless the fact that the product contains a hollow center is disclosed in immediate proximity to the term "Gold'' or its abbreviation (for example, "14 Karat Gold-Hollow Center," or "14 K. Gold Tubing," when of a gold alloy tubing of such karat fineness). Such products should not be marked or described as "solid" or as being solidly of gold or of a gold alloy. For example, when the composition of such a product is 14 karat gold alloy, it should not be described or marked as either "14 Kt. Solid Gold" or as "Solid 14 Kt. Gold."

(2) An industry product or part thereof, on which there has been affixed on all significant surfaces, by any process, a coating, electroplating, or deposition by any means, of gold or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness that is of substantial thickness, and the minimum thickness throughout of which is equivalent to one-half micron (or approximately 20 millionths of an inch) of fine gold, may be marked or described as "Gold Plate" or "Gold Plated," or abbreviated, as, for example, G.P. The exact thickness of the plate may be marked on the item, if it is immediately followed by a designation of the karat fineness of the plating which is of equal conspicuousness as the term used (as, for example, "2 microns 12 K. gold plate" or "2µ 12 K. G.P." for an item plated with 2 microns of 12 karat gold.)

Note paragraph (c)(2) to paragraph (b):  If an industry product has a thicker coating or electroplating of gold or gold alloy on some areas than others, the minimum thickness of the plate should be marked.

(3) An industry product or part thereof on which there has been affixed on all significant surfaces by soldering, brazing, welding, or other mechanical means, a plating of gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness and of substantial thickness may be marked or described as "Gold Filled," "Gold Overlay," "Rolled Gold Plate"or an adequate abbreviation, when such plating constitutes at least 1/20th of the weight of the metal in the entire article and when the term is immediately preceded by a designation of the karat fineness of the plating which is of equal conspicuousness as the term used (for example, "14 Karat Gold Filled," "14 Kt. Gold Filled," "14 Kt. G.F.," "14 Kt. Gold Overlay," or "14K. R.G.P."). When conforming to all such requirements except the specified minimum of 1/20th of the weight of the metal in the entire article, the terms "Gold Overlay" and "Rolled Gold Plate" may be used when the karat fineness designation is immediately preceded by a fraction accurately disclosing the portion of the weight of the metal in the entire article accounted for by the plating, and when such fraction is of equal conspicuousness as the term used (for example, "1/40th 12 Kt. Rolled Gold Plate" or "1/40 12 Kt. R.G.P.").

(4) An industry product or part thereof, on which there has been affixed on all significant surfaces by an electrolytic process, an electroplating of gold, or of a gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, which has a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to .175 microns (approximately 7/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold, may be marked or described as "Gold Electroplate" or "Gold Electroplated," or abbreviated, as, for example, "G.E.P." When the electroplating meets the minimum fineness but not the minimum thickness specified above, the marking or description may be "Gold Flashed" or "Gold Washed." When the electroplating is of the minimum fineness specified above and of a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to two and one half (2 1/2) microns (or approximately 100/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold, the marking or description may be "Heavy Gold Electroplate" or "Heavy Gold Electroplated." When electroplatings qualify for the term "Gold Electroplate" (or "Gold Electroplated"), or the term "Heavy Gold Electroplate" (or "Heavy Gold Electroplated"), and have been applied by use of a particular kind of electrolytic process, the marking may be accompanied by identification of the process used, as for example, "Gold Electroplated (X Process)" or "Heavy Gold Electroplated (Y Process)."

(d) The provisions of this section relating to markings and descriptions of industry products and parts thereof are subject to the applicable tolerances of the National Stamping Act or any amendment thereof.

Note 4 to paragraph (d):  Exemptions recognized in the assay of karat gold industry products and in the assay of gold filled, gold overlay, and rolled gold plate industry products, and not to be considered in any assay for quality, are listed in the appendix.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that an industry product is "vermeil" if such mark or description misrepresents the product's true composition.

(b) An industry product may be described or marked as "vermeil" if it consists of a base of sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces with gold, or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, that is of substantial thickness and a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to two and one half (2 1/2) microns (or approximately 100/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold.

 It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "vermeil" to describe a product in which the sterling silver has been covered with a base metal (such as nickel) plated with gold unless there is a disclosure that the sterling silver is covered with a base metal that is plated with gold.

Exemptions recognized in the assay of gold filled, gold overlay, and rolled gold plate industry products are listed in the appendix.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent that an industry product contains silver, or to misrepresent an industry product as having a silver content, plating, electroplating, or coating.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe, or otherwise represent all or part of an industry product as "silver," "solid silver," "Sterling Silver," "Sterling," or the abbreviation "Ster." unless it is at least 925/1,000ths pure silver.

(c) It is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe, or otherwise represent all or part of an industry product as "coin" or "coin silver" unless it is at least 900/1,000ths pure silver.

(d) It is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe, or otherwise represent all or part of an industry product as being plated or coated with silver unless all significant surfaces of the product or part contain a plating or coating of silver that is of substantial thickness.

(e) The provisions of this section relating to markings and descriptions of industry products and parts thereof are subject to the applicable tolerances of the National Stamping Act or any amendment thereof.

 The National Stamping Act provides that silverplated articles shall not "be stamped, branded, engraved or imprinted with the word ‘sterling’ or the word ‘coin,’ either alone or in conjunction with other words or marks." 15 U.S.C. 297(a).

Exemptions recognized in the assay of silver industry products are listed in the appendix.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the words "platinum," "iridium," "palladium," "ruthenium," "rhodium," and "osmium," or any abbreviation to mark or describe all or part of an industry product if such marking or description misrepresents the product’s true composition. The Platinum Group Metals (PGM) are Platinum, Iridium, Palladium, Ruthenium, Rhodium, and Osmium.

(b) The following are examples of markings or descriptions that may be misleading:

(1) Use of the word "Platinum" or any abbreviation, without qualification, to describe all or part of an industry product that is not composed throughout of 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum.

(2) Use of the word "Platinum" or any abbreviation accompanied by a number indicating the parts per thousand of pure Platinum contained in the product without mention of the number of parts per thousand of other PGM contained in the product, to describe all or part of an industry product that is not composed throughout of at least 850 parts per thousand pure platinum, for example,"600Plat."

(3) Use of the word "Platinum" or any abbreviation thereof, to mark or describe any product that is not composed throughout of at least 500 parts per thousand pure Platinum.

(c) The following are examples of markings and descriptions that are not considered unfair or deceptive:

(1) The following abbreviations for each of the PGM may be used for quality marks on articles: "Plat." or "Pt." for Platinum; "Irid." or "Ir." for Iridium; "Pall." or "Pd." for Palladium; "Ruth." or "Ru." for Ruthenium; "Rhod." or "Rh." for Rhodium; and "Osmi." or "Os." for Osmium.

(2) An industry product consisting of at least 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum may be marked or described as "Platinum."

(3) An industry product consisting of 850 parts per thousand pure Platinum, 900 parts per thousand pure Platinum, or 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum may be marked "Platinum," provided that the Platinum marking is preceded by a number indicating the amount in parts per thousand of pure Platinum (for industry products consisting of 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum, the marking described in § 23.7(b)(2) above is also appropriate). Thus, the following markings may be used: "950Pt.," "950Plat.," "900Pt.," "900Plat.," "850Pt.," or "850Plat."

(4) An industry product consisting of at least 950 parts per thousand PGM, and of at least 500 parts per thousand pure Platinum, may be marked "Platinum," provided that the mark of each PGM constituent is preceded by a number indicating the amount in parts per thousand of each PGM, as for example, "600Pt.350Ir.," "600Plat.350Irid.," or "550Pt.350Pd.50Ir.," "550Plat.350Pall.50Irid."

Exemptions recognized in the assay of platinum industry products are listed in the Appendix.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe, or otherwise represent all or part of an industry product as "Pewter" or any abbreviation if such mark or description misrepresents the product's true composition.

(b) An industry product or part thereof may be described or marked as "Pewter" or any abbreviation if it consists of at least 900 parts per 1000 Grade A Tin, with the remainder composed of metals appropriate for use in pewter.

As used in these guides, the term quality mark means any letter, figure, numeral, symbol, sign, word, or term, or any combination thereof, that has been stamped, embossed, inscribed, or otherwise placed on any industry product and which indicates or suggests that any such product is composed throughout of any precious metal or any precious metal alloy or has a surface or surfaces on which there has been plated or deposited any precious metal or precious metal alloy. Included are the words "gold," "karat," "carat," "silver," "sterling," "vermeil," "platinum," "iridium," "palladium," "ruthenium," "rhodium," or "osmium," or any abbreviations thereof, whether used alone or in conjunction with the words "filled," "plated," "overlay," or "electroplated," or any abbreviations thereof. Quality markings include those in which the words or terms "gold," "karat," "silver," "vermeil," "platinum" (or platinum group metals), or their abbreviations are included, either separately or as suffixes, prefixes, or syllables.

(1) If a quality mark on an industry product is applicable to only part of the product, the part of the product to which it is applicable (or inapplicable) should be disclosed when, absent such disclosure, the location of the mark misrepresents the product or part's true composition.

(2) If a quality mark is applicable to only part of an industry product, but not another part which is of similar surface appearance, each quality mark should be closely accompanied by an identification of the part or parts to which the mark is applicable.

(b) Deception by reason of difference in the size of letters or words in a marking or markings. It is unfair or deceptive to place a quality mark on a product in which the words or letters appear in greater size than other words or letters of the mark, or when different markings placed on the product have different applications and are in different sizes, when the net impression of any such marking would be misleading as to the metallic composition of all or part of the product. (An example of improper marking would be the marking of a gold electroplated product with the word "electroplate" in small type and the word "gold" in larger type, with the result that purchasers and prospective purchasers of the product might only observe the word "gold.")

 Legibility of markings. If a quality mark is engraved or stamped on an industry product, or is printed on a tag or label attached to the product, the quality mark should be of sufficient size type as to be legible to persons of normal vision, should be so placed as likely to be observed by purchasers, and should be so attached as to remain thereon until consumer purchase.

 Disclosure of identity of manufacturers, processors, or distributors. The National Stamping Act provides that any person, firm, corporation, or association, being a manufacturer or dealer subject to section 294 of the Act, who applies or causes to be applied a quality mark, or imports any article bearing a quality mark "which indicates or purports to indicate that such article is made in whole or in part of gold or silver or of an alloy of either metal" shall apply to the article the trademark or name of such person. 15 U.S.C. 297.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to:

(1) Use the terms "corrosion proof," "noncorrosive," "rust proof," or any other term of similar meaning to describe an industry product unless all parts of the product will be immune from rust and other forms of corrosion during the life expectancy of the product; or

(2) Use the terms "corrosion resistant," "rust resistant," or any other term of similar meaning to describe an industry product unless all parts of the product are of such composition as to not be subject to material damage by corrosion or rust during the major portion of the life expectancy of the product under normal conditions of use.

(b) Among the metals that may be considered as corrosion (and rust) resistant are: Pure nickel; Gold alloys of not less than 10 Kt. fineness; and Austenitic stainless steels.

(a) A diamond is a natural mineral consisting essentially of pure carbon crystallized in the isometric system. It is found in many colors. Its hardness is 10; its specific gravity is approximately 3.52.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the unqualified word "diamond" to describe or identify any object or product not meeting the requirements specified in the definition of diamond provided above, or which, though meeting such requirements, has not been symmetrically fashioned with at least seventeen (17) polished facets.

Note 1 to paragraph (b):  It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that industrial grade diamonds or other non-jewelry quality diamonds are of jewelry quality.

(c) The following are examples of descriptions that are not considered unfair or deceptive:

(1) The use of the words "rough diamond" to describe or designate uncut or unfaceted objects or products satisfying the definition of diamond provided above; or

(2) The use of the word "diamond" to describe or designate objects or products satisfying the definition of diamond but which have not been symmetrically fashioned with at least seventeen (17) polished facets when in immediate conjunction with the word "diamond" there is either a disclosure of the number of facets and shape of the diamond or the name of a type of diamond that denotes shape and that usually has less than seventeen (17) facets (e.g., "rose diamond").

Note 2 to paragraph (c):  Additional guidance about imitation and laboratory-created diamond representations and misuse of words "gem," "real," "genuine," "natural," etc.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "flawless" to describe any diamond that discloses flaws, cracks, inclusions, carbon spots, clouds, internal lasering, or other blemishes or imperfections of any sort when examined under a corrected magnifier at 10-power, with adequate illumination, by a person skilled in diamond grading.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "perfect," or any representation of similar meaning, to describe any diamond unless the diamond meets the definition of "flawless" and is not of inferior color or make.

(c) It is unfair or deceptive to use the words "flawless" or "perfect" to describe a ring or other article of jewelry having a "flawless" or "perfect" principal diamond or diamonds, and supplementary stones that are not of such quality, unless there is a disclosure that the description applies only to the principal diamond or diamonds.

It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "blue white" or any representation of similar meaning to describe any diamond that under normal, north daylight or its equivalent shows any color or any trace of any color other than blue or bluish.

It is unfair or deceptive to use the terms "properly cut," "proper cut," "modern cut," or any representation of similar meaning to describe any diamond that is lopsided, or is so thick or so thin in depth as to detract materially from the brilliance of the stone.

 Stones that are commonly called "fisheye" or "old mine" should not be described as "properly cut," "modern cut," etc.

It is unfair or deceptive to use the unqualified expressions "brilliant," "brilliant cut," or "full cut" to describe, identify, or refer to any diamond except a round diamond that has at least thirty-two (32) facets plus the table above the girdle and at least twenty-four (24) facets below.

Such terms should not be applied to single or rose-cut diamonds. They may be applied to emerald-(rectangular) cut, pear-shaped, heart-shaped, oval-shaped, and marquise-(pointed oval) cut diamonds meeting the above-stated facet requirements when, in immediate conjunction with the term used, the form of the diamond is disclosed.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the weight of a diamond.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "point" or any abbreviation in any representation, advertising, marking, or labeling to describe the weight of a diamond, unless the weight is also stated as decimal parts of a carat (e.g., 25 points or .25 carat).

Note 1 to paragraph (b):  A carat is a standard unit of weight for a diamond and is equivalent to 200 milligrams (1/5 gram). A point is one one hundredth (1/100) of a carat.

(c) If diamond weight is stated as decimal parts of a carat (e.g., .47 carat), the stated figure should be accurate to the last decimal place. If diamond weight is stated to only one decimal place (e.g., .5 carat), the stated figure should be accurate to the second decimal place (e.g., ".5 carat" could represent a diamond weight between .495-.504).

(d) If diamond weight is stated as fractional parts of a carat, a conspicuous disclosure of the fact that the diamond weight is not exact should be made in close proximity to the fractional representation and a disclosure of a reasonable range of weight for each fraction (or the weight tolerance being used) should also be made.

Note to paragraph (d):  When fractional representations of diamond weight are made, as described in paragraph d of this section, in catalogs or other printed materials, the disclosure of the fact that the actual diamond weight is within a specified range should be made conspicuously on every page where a fractional representation is made. Such disclosure may refer to a chart or other detailed explanation of the actual ranges used. For example, "Diamond weights are not exact; see chart on p.X for ranges."

As used in these guides, the terms set forth below have the following meanings:

(a) Pearl: A calcareous concretion consisting essentially of alternating concentric layers of carbonate of lime and organic material formed within the body of certain mollusks, the result of an abnormal secretory process caused by an irritation of the mantle of the mollusk following the intrusion of some foreign body inside the shell of the mollusk, or due to some abnormal physiological condition in the mollusk, neither of which has in any way been caused or induced by humans.

(b) Cultured Pearl: The composite product created when a nucleus (usually a sphere of calcareous mollusk shell) planted by humans inside the shell or in the mantle of a mollusk is coated with nacre by the mollusk.

(c) Imitation Pearl: A manufactured product composed of any material or materials that simulate in appearance a pearl or cultured pearl.

(d) Seed Pearl: A small pearl, as defined in (a), that measures approximately two millimeters or less.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the unqualified word "pearl" or any other word or phrase of like meaning to describe, identify, or refer to any object or product that is not in fact a pearl,

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "pearl" to describe, identify, or refer to a cultured pearl unless it is immediately preceded, with equal conspicuousness, by the word "cultured" or "cultivated," or by some other word or phrase of like meaning, so as to indicate definitely and clearly that the product is not a pearl.

(c) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "pearl" to describe, identify, or refer to an imitation pearl unless it is immediately preceded, with equal conspicuousness, by the word "artificial," "imitation," or "simulated," or by some other word or phrase of like meaning, so as to indicate definitely and clearly that the product is not a pearl.

(d) It is unfair or deceptive to use the terms "faux pearl," "fashion pearl," "Mother of Pearl," or any other such term to describe or qualify an imitation pearl product unless it is immediately preceded, with equal conspicuousness, by the word "artificial," "imitation," or "simulated," or by some other word or phrase of like meaning, so as to indicate definitely and clearly that the product is not a pearl.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "cultured pearl," "cultivated pearl," or any other word, term, or phrase of like meaning to describe, identify, or refer to any imitation pearl.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "seed pearl" or any word, term, or phrase of like meaning to describe, identify, or refer to a cultured or an imitation pearl, without using the appropriate qualifying term "cultured" (e.g., "cultured seed pearl") or "simulated," "artificial," or "imitation" (e.g., "imitation seed pearl").

(c) It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "Oriental pearl" or any word, term, or phrase of like meaning to describe, identify, or refer to any industry product other than a pearl taken from a salt water mollusk and of the distinctive appearance and type of pearls obtained from mollusks inhabiting the Persian Gulf and recognized in the jewelry trade as Oriental pearls.

(d) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "Oriental" to describe, identify, or refer to any cultured or imitation pearl.

(e) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "natura," "natural," "nature’s," or any word, term, or phrase of like meaning to describe, identify, or refer to a cultured or imitation pearl. It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "organic" to describe, identify, or refer to an imitation pearl, unless the term is qualified in such a way as to make clear that the product is not a natural or cultured pearl.

(f) It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "kultured," "semi-cultured pearl," "cultured-like," "part-cultured," "pre-mature cultured pearl," or any word, term, or phrase of like meaning to describe, identify, or refer to an imitation pearl.

(g) It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "South Sea pearl" unless it describes, identifies, or refers to a pearl that is taken from a salt water mollusk of the Pacific Ocean South Sea Islands, Australia, or Southeast Asia. It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "South Sea cultured pearl" unless it describes, identifies, or refers to a cultured pearl formed in a salt water mollusk of the Pacific Ocean South Sea Islands, Australia, or Southeast Asia.

(h) It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "Biwa cultured pearl" unless it describes, identifies, or refers to cultured pearls grown in fresh water mollusks in the lakes and rivers of Japan.

(i) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "real," "genuine," "precious," or any word, term, or phrase of like meaning to describe, identify, or refer to any imitation pearl.

(j) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "gem" to describe, identify, or refer to a pearl or cultured pearl that does not possess the beauty, symmetry, rarity, and value necessary for qualification as a gem.

Note to paragraph (j):  Use of the word "gem" with respect to cultured pearls should be avoided since few cultured pearls possess the necessary qualifications to properly be termed "gems." Imitation pearls should not be described as "gems."

(k) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "synthetic" or similar terms to describe cultured or imitation pearls.

(l) It is unfair or deceptive to use the terms "Japanese Pearls," "Chinese Pearls," "Mallorca Pearls," or any regional designation to describe, identify, or refer to any cultured or imitation pearl, unless the term is immediately preceded, with equal conspicuousness, by the word "cultured," "artificial," "imitation," or "simulated," or by some other word or phrase of like meaning, so as to indicate definitely and clearly that the product is a cultured or imitation pearl.

It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the manner in which cultured pearls are produced, the size of the nucleus artificially inserted in the mollusk and included in cultured pearls, the length of time that such products remained in the mollusk, the thickness of the nacre coating, the value and quality of cultured pearls as compared with the value and quality of pearls and imitation pearls, or any other material matter relating to the formation, structure, properties, characteristics, and qualities of cultured pearls.

The disclosures outlined in this section are applicable to sellers at every level of trade, as (b) of these Guides, and they may be made at the point of sale prior to sale; except that where a jewelry product can be purchased without personally viewing the product, (e.g., direct mail catalogs, online services, televised shopping programs) disclosure should be made in the solicitation for or description of the product.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the unqualified words "ruby," "sapphire," "emerald," "topaz," or the name of any other precious or semi-precious stone to describe any product that is not in fact a natural stone of the type described.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "ruby," "sapphire," "emerald," "topaz," or the name of any other precious or semi-precious stone, or the word "stone," "birthstone," "gemstone,'' or similar term to describe a laboratory-grown, laboratory-created, [manufacturer name]-created, synthetic, imitation, or simulated stone, unless such word or name is immediately preceded with equal conspicuousness by the word "laboratory-grown," "laboratory-created," "[manufacturer name]-created," "synthetic," or by the word "imitation" or "simulated," so as to disclose clearly the nature of the product and the fact it is not a natural gemstone.

Note to paragraph (b):  The use of the word "faux" to describe a laboratory-created or imitation stone is not an adequate disclosure that the stone is not natural.

(c) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "laboratory-grown," "laboratory-created," "[manufacturer name]-created," or "synthetic" with the name of any natural stone to describe any industry product unless such industry product has essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as the stone named.

It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "real," "genuine," "natural," "precious," "semi-precious," or similar terms to describe any industry product that is manufactured or produced artificially.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "gem" to describe, identify, or refer to a ruby, sapphire, emerald, topaz, or other industry product that does not possess the beauty, symmetry, rarity, and value necessary for qualification as a gem.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "gem" to describe any laboratory-created industry product unless the product meets the requirements of paragraph (a) of this section and unless such word is immediately accompanied, with equal conspicuousness, by the word "laboratory-grown," "laboratory-created," or "[manufacturer-name]-created," "synthetic," or by some other word or phrase of like meaning, so as to clearly disclose that it is not a natural gem.

 In general, use of the word "gem" with respect to laboratory-created stones should be avoided since few laboratory-created stones possess the necessary qualifications to properly be termed "gems." Imitation diamonds and other imitation stones should not be described as "gems." Not all diamonds or natural stones, including those classified as precious stones, possess the necessary qualifications to be properly termed "gems."

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "flawless" as a quality description of any gemstone that discloses blemishes, inclusions, or clarity faults of any sort when examined under a corrected magnifier at 10-power, with adequate illumination, by a person skilled in gemstone grading.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "perfect" or any representation of similar meaning to describe any gemstone unless the gemstone meets the definition of "flawless" and is not of inferior color or make.

(c) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "flawless," "perfect," or any representation of similar meaning to describe any imitation gemstone.

(a) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a karat gold industry product include springs, posts, and separable backs of lapel buttons, posts and nuts for attaching interchangeable ornaments, metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering, field pieces and bezels for lockets, and wire pegs or rivets used for applying mountings and other ornaments, which mountings or ornaments shall be of the quality marked.

Note:  Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a karat gold optical product include: the hinge assembly (barrel or other special types such as are customarily used in plastic frames); washers, bushings, and nuts of screw assemblies; dowels; springs for spring shoe straps; metal parts permanently encased in a non-metallic covering; and for oxfords, coil and joint springs.

(b) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a gold filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate industry product, other than watchcases, include joints, catches, screws, pin stems, pins of scarf pins, hat pins, etc., field pieces and bezels for lockets, posts and separate backs of lapel buttons, bracelet and necklace snap tongues, springs, and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.

Note: Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a gold filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate optical product include: screws; the hinge assembly (barrel or other special types such as are customarily used in plastic frames); washers, bushings, tubes and nuts of screw assemblies; dowels; pad inserts; springs for spring shoe straps, cores and/or inner windings of comfort cable temples; metal parts permanently encased in a non-metallic covering; and for oxfords, the handle and catch.

(c) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a silver industry product include screws, rivets, springs, spring pins for wrist watch straps; posts and separable backs of lapel buttons; wire pegs, posts, and nuts used for applying mountings or other ornaments, which mountings or ornaments shall be of the quality marked; pin stems (e.g., of badges, brooches, emblem pins, hat pins, and scarf pins, etc.); levers for belt buckles; blades and skeletons of pocket knives; field pieces and bezels for lockets; bracelet and necklace snap tongues; any other joints, catches, or screws; and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.

(d) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of an industry product of silver in combination with gold include joints, catches, screws, pin stems, pins of scarf pins, hat pins, etc., posts and separable backs of lapel buttons, springs, and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.

(e) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a platinum industry product include springs, winding bars, sleeves, crown cores, mechanical joint pins, screws, rivets, dust bands, detachable movement rims, hat-pin stems, and bracelet and necklace snap tongues. In addition, the following exemptions are recognized for products marked in accordance with section 23.8(b)(5) of these Guides (i.e., products that are less than 500 parts per thousand platinum): pin tongues, joints, catches, lapel button backs and the posts to which they are attached, scarf-pin stems, hat pin sockets, shirt-stud backs, vest-button backs, and ear-screw backs, provided such parts are made of the same quality platinum as is used in the balance of the article.

1. The Guides for the Watch Industry, 16 CFR part 245, address watchcases and permanently attached watchbands.

2.  for examples of acceptable markings and descriptions.

3.The term substantial thickness means that all areas of the plating are of such thickness as to assure a durable coverage of the base metal to which it has been affixed. Since industry products include items having surfaces and parts of surfaces that are subject to different degrees of wear, the thickness of plating for all items or for different areas of the surface of individual items does not necessarily have to be uniform.

4. A product containing 1 micron (otherwise known as µ) of 12 karat gold is equivalent to one-half micron of 24 karat gold.

5. Under the National Stamping Act, articles or parts made of gold or of gold alloy that contain no solder have a permissible tolerance of three parts per thousand. If the part tested contains solder, the permissible tolerance is seven parts per thousand.

6. Under the National Stamping Act, sterling silver articles or parts that contain no solder have a permissible tolerance of four parts per thousand. If the part tested contains solder, the permissible tolerance is ten parts per thousand.

7. Field pieces of lockets are those inner portions used as frames between the inside edges of the locket and the spaces for holding pictures. Bezels are the separable inner metal rings to hold the pictures in place.

8. Oxfords are a form of eyeglasses where a flat spring joins the two eye rims and the tension it exerts on the nose serves to hold the unit in place. Oxfords are also referred to as pince nez.

 Books
Price & value guides

Collectible Costume Jewelry : Identification & Values [Cherry Simonds]
Cherri Simonds is a young collector who published this book in 1997 for new collectors especially. Glorious photographs from her own and other collections, sensible value ranges, marks identifications and history behind the marks where available. A great value for the money. Author Cherri Simonds is a Member of Jewelcollect. Hardcover.

Collectible Costume Jewelry: ID and Value Guide [Henzel]
This book's first edition has long been out of print but here is the new edition, published in 1997 by this respected author. Recommended for new collectors at an easy price, too. Paperback.

Collecting Rhinestone & Colored Jewelry
The 3rd edition of this well known and respected book, it is a must-have for all beginner collectors. Previous editions are out-of-print, but this is still available without waiting. Many color photographs, value identifications. Paperback.

Collectors Encyclopedia of Hairwork Jewelry : Identification & Values
Published August 1998. No published reviews available. Hardcover

Complete Price Guide to Antique Jewelry [Gilbert]
For collectors of costume jewelry, this book may still be of interest as many also collect precious antique jewelry. Even if not actively collecting, it's always interesting to study and recognize precious collectible jewelry from the rare to the mundane as categorized in this fine book, another good gift idea to the collector who already has many books. Hardcover.

The Bakelite Collection [by Matthew L. Burkholz, John Hylton (Photographer)]
From a published review, ... describes the many differing collecting preferences of some of the nation's most prolific appreciators of fine Bakelite jewelry. People from all walks of life alike have fallen prey to Bakelite fever. The Bakelite Collection showcases some of the best of their fantastic jewelry in full color. Also price guide. Hardcover. Author Matthew L. Burkholz is a Member of Jewelcollect.

Cameos: Classical to Costume
Probably the only book that covers cameos in total depth. History, time line, and hundreds of very fine photographs of all types of cameos from very fine antique examples to modern plastic. Value ranges under each photo. A must-own for the cameo collector. Authors Monica Lynn Clements and Patricia Rosser Clements are Members of Jewelcollect. Hardcover.

Coro Jewelry: A Collector's Guide--Identification & Values by Marcia Brown
Marcia Brown, author of Unsigned Beauties of Costume Jewelry, has done it again. A long-awaited guide on Coro Jewelry is now available, with values applicable to current markets. Reasonably priced, no collector of Coro should be without it.

Costume Jewelers: The Golden Age of Design [Dubbs Ball]
This book is among the most ambitious for famous name coverage. The author has included a chapter or mention of near 60 designer or manufacturer marks. Glorious color photographs and value guide in back of the book. Helpful hints on names to look for and a chapter on the manufacturers at work. A very worthwhile book to own, and a great gift to any collector. May 2000 ed. Hardcover.

Costume Jewelry: A Practical Handbook & Value Guide [Rezazadeh]
Fred Rezazadeh and his wife collected everything including fashion jewelry for many years. Fred published this book in 1997 because he felt that many other value guides were not accurately reflective of current market prices. His values are more conservative than other value guides. Covers many marks and manufacturers in good, better, best order. Recommended for beginner and intermediate collectors and for dealers, too. Hardcover.

Costume Jewelry Identification and Price Guide: The Confident Collector [Harrice Miller]
A no-nonsense portable guide book to collecting fashion jewelry, with value ranges and designer and marks identifications. 1994 ed. Author Harrice Simons Miller is a Member of Jewelcollect. Paperback.

Diamond Ring Buying Guide
A no nonsense guide on what to look for when buying that important diamond ring. Colors, clarity, cut, and price ranges covered. An important book for first-time buyers. Paperback.

Do It Yourself Guide to Jewelery Identification [Jordan]
From a publ. review, .. do it yourself guide to identify jewelry of all types from 1800 to today. Includes all metals used in jewelry, stones including organics like pearls, coral, tortise shell, jet, Etc. Also How to Locate a Honest Jeweler, What am Appraisal Should Include, How to Store and Care for Your Jewelry. Identification methods recommended for proper evaluation of stones and metals in jewelry are currently used and recognized by The Gemology Institute of America and Jewelers Institute of America.

How to Be a Jewelry Detective
Definitely a great beginner collector or dealer how-to book. Secrets on how to find the best buy and buying them by renowned author Jeanenne Bell, a must if just starting collecting.

Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide [Matlins]
Subtitled How to Buy Diamonds, Pearls, Colored Gemstones, Gold & Jewelry with Confidence and Knowledge. A most comprehensive buying guide for anyone but especially first-time buyers. It's so good even honest diamond dealers like it as it presents the market in a true light, see the reviews. If you don't own any other book on how to buy fine gems, start with this one. Paperback.

Miriam Haskell Jewelry (Schiffer Book for Collectors):
Lovingly written by by Cathy Gordon, Sheila Pamfiloff, members of Jewelcollect, this excellent and beautiful book is a must for all collectors, especially those who cannot find enough up-to-date information on the elusive Miriam Haskell. Photos never seen before from private collections, value guide and seldom available tips on how to recognize Haskell jewelry makes it a book not to be missed. Get it before it goes out of print. Hardcover.

One Hundred Years of Collectible Jewelry : 1850-1950 [Baker]
Although this book was published in 1981, and the values given have changed much since, it is worth owning for its excellent identifications and good photographs. Paperback.

The Pearl Book [Matlins]
What to look for when buying cultured and natural pearls explained in easy terms with practical advice for anyone but especially beginners. 2nd ed. Feb. 2000. Paperback.

Popular Jewelry of the 60s, 70s, & 80s [Ettinger]
Sometimes hard to find details on, Ettinger lists jewelry from the latter part of the 20th century. Very worthwhile for identification of many lesser known styles and marks. Paperback.

Sarah Coventry Jewelry: An Unauthorized Guide for Collectors
This newer book on Sarah Coventry recounts this illustrious mark's early history as one of the first to be sold exclusively at home parties and not in stores, from the 1950s through the 1980s. An emerging collectible mark, the limited production socalled hostess sets are especially prized. Value guide and lots of photographs. The authors are Members of Jewelcollect. Paperback.

Unsigned Beauties of Costume Jewelry: Identification and Values [Marcia Brown]
The author is probably one of the biggest collectors in the world of unsigned jewelry, meaning non-attributed to any designer. Chiefly concentrating on rhinestone jewelry of very high caliber, Marcia Brown has painstakingly put together her enormous and fabulous collection for over 30 years. All color photos by category of jewelry with value guide under each photo. A very worthwhile investment for rhinestone jewelry collectors at a very good price. Author Marcia Brown is a Member of Jewelcollect. Hardcover.

 

A Collector's Guide to Costume Jewelry : Key Styles and How to Recognize Them
One of the better handy take-with books for collectors, it is easy to read, and values are not over-inflated. Many styles not seen elsewhere are featured. Easy price, too, published in 1997. Paperback.

Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950, 5th Ed. [Bell]
From a published review, .. another update of 1996 work. A 100 years of collectible American and English jewelry, in three main sections, When Was It Made and What Is It Worth?, 100 Years of Cameos, and Manufacturing Techniques. six chapters covers a specific period, historical information introduces each withe date, description, and value of each. 1700 photographs, some in color. Prices from an auction houses, collectors, or dealers, with the source listed. Appendix with how to date jewelry, identify metals, authenticate pieces, and identify designer and trademarks. Table of contents is detailed but no index. For serious jewelry collectors and casual hobbyists. .. Paperback.

Art Nouveau and Art Deco Jewelry : An Identification and Value Guide
Lillian Baker's older value guide is still an excellent identification of many styles not shown in other books. Emphasis on the rarer styles. Intermediate collectors should appreciate this book. Paperback.

Avon Collectible Fashion Jewelry and Awards: Collectible Fashion Jewelry and Awards
Avon products include a long line of fashion jewelry, many early styles are rare and collectible. Look them up here and find out what you have. Published in 1998. Authors Monica Lynn Clements and Patricia Rosser are Members of Jewelcollect. Paperback.

Vintage Jewelry for Investment and Casual Wear
This new book by Karen Edeen promises values on vintage jewelry. Publishing date October 2001. Hardcover.

Warman's Jewelry : A Fully Illustrated Price Guide to 19th and 20th Century Jewelry, Including Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Costume (2nd Ed)
1998 edition is more comprehensive than the earlier edition. It is organized for looking up specific jewelry starting with Early Victorian through Post-War Modern, with discoveries, inventions catalogued by year. A highly researched book, with sensible value ranges. Recommended for all levels to expert. Author-editor Christie Romero is a Member of Jewelcollect.Paperback.

What's Your Best Price? [Purnie]
From a published review, .. about the antique business by a jewelry and antique dealer about the games and dealings in the antique business. Illustrated, humorous with revealing tips. Paperback.

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Healing with gemstones

part of gemstone healing. You see, color is one of a gem's most important qualities. In general, the closer the gem is to the rainbow shade of that color, the more valuable and potent it is. Each gemstone has a long list of healing abilities, and some of these powers depend on the gem's color rays. That's why a gem's color is so important. Because every color emits a specific ray - and different beneficial effects. In other words, it is the gemstone's color that releases its powers. In his book, Gems of the 7 Color Rays, gemstone therapist William Stuber explains that gemstones are especially powerful in magnifying and focusing their energy. Their crystal makeup holds pure, highly concentrated vibrations of specific color rays.Gemstones are not only intense concentrations of color energy, they also constantly attract currents of their specific color. Which simply means that a red stone attracts red rays, a blue stone attracts blue etc. So when you wear a gemstone, you are automatically accessing the powerful energy of that gem's color.And what does that energy mean to you? Well, take ruby for example. Its hot, red rays treat cold diseases. Cold diseases include ailments like low blood pressure, constipation and anemia. With the rays it emits, the ruby helps by raising body temperature, increasing circulation, metabolic rate and muscle tension.Emeralds, on the other hand, emit cold, green rays that cure hot diseases such as burns, anorexia, stomach ulcers and eczema. How? Again, by doing the opposite. By lowering body temperature, body tension, heart rate, circulation and relaxing muscle tension.When we talk about color and gemstone therapy we would be remiss if we didn't mention the chakras. Chakras are specific points of energy located throughout the body that correlate to certain nerve and endocrine centers. Seven is the most commonly used number, and each of these seven chakras connects to certain colors and character traits. It is believed that when the chakras are not aligned properly, the body develops all kinds of disorders like physical illness and mental stress. Balance is restored by using gemstones that are the same color as the specific chakra that needs strengthening. Michael Katz has been exploring gemstone healing since 1988. Today he is an author, lecturer and leading authority in this field. He also runs Gemisphere that provides gemstone energy medicine education and tools to people in over 40 countries. In his book, Gemstone Energy Medicine: Healing Body, Mind And Spirit, Katz explains how the western world has changed. "Doctors and patients are experiencing that energy medicine works - often where conventional medicine does not. Chronic debilitating illnesses, common ailments, aches, pains, and everything in between have responded to energy medicine practices...And, he continues, "...One of the most powerful forms of energy medicine is gem therapy."A more recent and most modern method of gemstone therapy is electronic gem lamp therapy. This form of treatment uses a special lamp together with colored gemstones and colored filters. Amazingly, electronic gem lamps are used to treat medical conditions like chronic physical pain, emotional pain, nervous disorders, skin problems, injuries, infections, allergies, and muscular and skeletal problems. Today they are even being used to treat life-threatening diseases like cancer, Alzheimer's and strokes.While patients may view these treatments as miraculous, they are really based on scientific principles. The electronic gem lamp was invented by Dr. Jon Whale, PhD., who directs Whale Medical Inc. This independent medical research company designs, develops and manufactures electronic medical equipment for medical professionals. His achievements include X-ray image intensifiers, lasers, medical scanners, nerve-pulse stimulus and biofeedback instruments. Dr. Whale's gem lamp works by pressurizing the gemstones to emit their energies at a fast and intense rate. According to Dr.Whale, 90% of patients report improvement within as little as 20 minutes after treatment begins. In one specific case, a cancer patient found the therapy session more effective than morphine.If you want even more factual proof that this method works, you can observe how patients' various energy levels are recorded before and after treatments. Electronic gem lamp therapy combines ancient and modern methods as the hi-tech lamp works together with tried and tested gem stones that were valued for their medicinal properties for hundreds, if not thousands of years. Like ruby for heating and energizing, carnelian for cooling and harmonizing, citrine for revitalizing, emerald for cooling, diamond for stimulating and sapphire for tranquilizing. Which is why, for example, blue sapphire will always be used for pain, and a combination of emerald and sapphire will be used for burns. The combination of diamond and carnelian has shown to be beneficial for strokes and Alzheimer's disease. Electronic gem lamp therapy is especially attractive because you don't need many or long treatments. This also means the patient doesn't become dependent on the treatment. In addition the low-voltage, low-heat lamp is completely safe, and the patient doesn't need to swallow anything so there is no risk of any side effects. And last but not least, patients find the treatments relaxing and pleasurable.

Electronic gem lamps have been used very successfully during the last two decades, and they are expected to develop even more.

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More jewellery books

Amazing Gems : An Illustrated Guide to the World's Most Dazzling Costume Jewelry Translated from Italian, and just released in English in May, 1997, it is one of the best researched books of recent years. Breathtaking color photographs make it a joy a read. Hardcover.

Antique Jewellery : Its Manufacture, Materials, & Design [Duncan] From a published review, ... concise and well laid out by catagory , easy to use with superbly informative illustrations. A lot packed in small volume. Paperback.

Antique Jewelry If you love the sweetheart jewelry from World War II, this is probably the most comprehensive work yet in print devoted exclusively to this type jewelry. Paperback.

Art Nouveau Jewelry A comprehensive illustrated guide to the best of Art Nouveau jewelry styles by respected British author Vivienne Becker. Paperback.

Avon Collectible Fashion Jewelry and Awards: Collectible Fashion Jewelry and Awards Avon products include a long line of fashion jewelry, many early styles are rare and collectible. Look them up here and find out what you have. Published in 1998. Authors Monica Lynn Clements and Patricia Rosser are Members of Jewelcollect. Paperback.

Cameos: Classical to Costume Probably the only book that covers cameos in total depth. History, time line, and hundreds of very fine photographs of all types of cameos from very fine antique examples to modern plastic. Value ranges under each photo. A must-own for the cameo collector. Authors Monica Lynn Clements and Patricia Rosser Clements are Members of Jewelcollect. Hardcover.

Fabulous Costume Jewelry : History of Fantasy and Fashion in Jewels [Becker] History of 20th century costume jewelry as viewed by Vivienne Becker, British jewelry historian. Hardcover.

Jewelry and Metalwork in the Arts and Crafts TraditionA reactive movement to the emerging age industrialization, Arts & Crafts got its start in England, France and Germany in the mid-late 19th century. A picture book with hundreds of color plates, this book is mainly about jewelry in England, Australia and Europe, less about the U.S. influences. Glossary, hallmarks, dealers, museums, auction houses, and clubdowns. A very comprensive elegant work, a must for any student of the Arts & Crafts movement. Hardcover.

Jewels and Jewelry [Phillips] Its modest title belies the enormity of this work: 500 years of Western jewelry as represented in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, England, covered in incredible depth and still in fast forward, only 160 pages. Scroll down description page to table of contents to get an idea. A fascinating book to study and own for all the right reasons, and an ideal gift book. Hardcover.

The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger Published in May 2001. This is the designer of precious jewels whom the costume jewelers imitated in the 1940s, and whose style is still influential in costume jewelry today. From a published review, ... Worn by Greta Garbo, Liz Taylor and Jackie Onassis, Jean Schlumberger's jewels have been called the 20th century's most glamorous. Enamel insect hatpins, a sapphire flower in a real terra-cotta flowerpot, a crucifix in diamonds, amethysts and rubies beautifully photographed for The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger, the catalogue for an exhibition at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. The book's release coincided with a touring exhibition sponsored by Tiffany & Co., where the artist worked from 1956 until his retirement in the late 1970s. Hardcover.

The Jewels of Lalique A very comprehensive work on the famous Art Nouveau jeweler's works, with color photos and history. Ideal gift book. Hardcover.

Kenneth Jay Lane: Faking It KJL talks about himself, as told to Harrice Simons Miller, and admits to being the best faker of famous jewels, including those of David Webb, Jean Schlumberger, and perhaps particularly proud of having his designs copied in precious gems. Celebrity clients mentioned on every page, Princess Diana, the Duchess of Windsor, Barbara Bush, many others, with images. An entertaining book with glorious color and black and white photos of Kenneth Lane's jewelry from his early days through the 1980s. Co-author Harrice Simons Miller is a Member of Jewelcollect. Hardcover.

Masterpieces from the House of Faberge The recognized master of extraordinary jewels for over 200 years, Faberge's production at the House of Faberge in czarist Russia is legendary. With over 350 illustrations, this book is truly a feast for the eyes as well as an important addition to any collector's library, not to mention a perfect gift to a collector. Hardcover.

The Necklace: From Antiquity to the Present History of the necklace, from 30,000 B.C. to the present day. From shells of the cavemen to gold and diamonds, this documentary work follows the necklace evolution through the ages. Techniques and styles as well as societal evolution are examined. Much intimate and little known details and fun trivia about terms used in describing various necklaces. Some auction clubdowns and appended glossary. Hardcover.

Paulding Farnham : Tiffany's Lost Genius From a published review, .. Paulding Farnham (1859-1927), one of America's most talented jewelry designers, rose to fame at th end of the 19th century, winning many awards at the era's great world's fairs. This book is the first devoted to Farnham and his too-brief career, spent entirely at Tiffany & Co., where his dazzling, highly original jewels and silverware brought the firm and America worldwide recognition. Hardcover.

Pre-Raphaelite to Arts and Crafts Jewelry [Gere] As the title states, Arts and Crafts jewelry is covered from its beginnings, with all the major contributors and a design time line. For unusual history especially, this work is worth owning if you collect Arts & Crafts jewelry or to present as a gift to a collector. Hardcover.

Sarah Coventry Jewelry: An Unauthorized Guide for Collectors This newer book on Sarah Coventry recounts this illustrious mark's early history as one of the first to be sold exclusively at home parties and not in stores, from the 1950s through the 1980s. An emerging collectible mark, the limited production socalled hostess sets are especially prized. Value guide and lots of photographs. Authors Monica Lynn Clements and Patricia Rosser are Members of Jewelcollect. Paperback.

Theodor Fahrner Jewelry...Between Avant-Garde and Tradition: Art Nouveau Art Deco the 1950sOne of the most influential artists of the 20th century, his life's work is detailed in this comprehensive work. Serious researchers of the German influence on Art Nouveau and Art Deco should be pleased. Hardcover.

The history of the tiara is traced through the centuries, its importance and meaning in royalty to its present role as adornment. A fascinating history book for tial collectors especially and a great gift idea, especially if the giftee already owns many other jewelry books. Hardcover.

Tiffany & Co. (Universe of Design) The story from the start of Louis Comfort Tiffany and other famous designers and artists, Jean Schlumberger, Elsa Peretti, and Paloma Picasso, who made the famous Tiffany store in New York what it was and still is. Hardcover.

Understanding Jewelry [Bennett, Mascetti] This book is about precious jewelry. August 2000 reprint edition. From a published review (of an earlier edition), ... newly revised, updated edition of a classic work features identification, dating and valuation of jewelry ordinary people can still locate and collect today. Sotheby's own experts use their evaluation techniques and expertise to provide a clear layman's volume on the process of jewellery

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Todays opal tip - To days method of mining is very economical specially with to days expensive diesel prices, firstly realise there are no government taxes on diesel for the mining industry. The technology is the underground bogor which was designed to move large amounts of opal clay from the face of the drive where you are working and transport the clay to the hoist, so it then can be transported by the hoist to your truck ready for processing. The bogor is basically a very small truck that is driven by a electric engine and is supply by electricity from a large generate which is situated above ground and electric cables are fitted securer to the shaft wall and of course to the bogor.

Todays opal tip - Different mining methods used underground the traditional method was moving soil from the face you are working by pick and shovel, and then came along a new piece of technology the jackhammer which is still the most economical way to go looking for Opal. It is certainly still quite slow but at the same time you are close to the face of the working area which if you have good lighting you can clearly see any colour that may appear which allows you to stop put the jackhammer down and use a small miners pick which in good hands then will work slowly and never brake the opal. Obviously if you are on opal and you are making money a lot of people will change over to technology like a blower and hydraulic digger which eliminates all the back breaking work of a jackhammer and manually removing the Opal Clay up and out to the surface of the claim above ground to allow the guy's to operate freely underground and not be restricted by over burden.

Todays opal tip - The environment it is becoming more and more difficult to operate a business in the outback of Australia these days as governments regulations and red tape seem to be everywhere, and of course the main population lives in the cities of Australia and are not getting the correct information about the worst drought in the history of the country and the consequences ,of this there are no subsidies for the agricultural industry and as the majority of the businesses have left the out back the towns are slowly closing down, which makes it more difficult for people to go prospecting for minals like Opal.

Todays opal tip - Getting involved in the black Opal industry at lightning Ridge New South Wales Australia, lightning Ridge is a one-day drive from Sydney or Brisbane it's easy just jump in your car and drive to the Ridge that all you need is yourself and be there , plenty of mining teams looking for people to work with them also there are many companies that a happy to get involved in partnerships particularly with investors or people who have already purchased trucks or other related mining equipment. It is that easy to start your new adventures and you will never look back specially if you love the out doors fresh air mateship, wide open spaces, wildlife then the black opal mining industry at lightning Ridge is definitely for you and you never know unless you have a go you might even become a multi millionaire.

Todays opal tip - Mechanical maintenance in the black opal industry it is particularly important to have high standards, and the reason why is that you are usually a hour a way from the nearest town if not further so your work day is gone by the time you drive back to town the day is over. Another reason to have regular maintenance checks is to avoid the problem in the first place becourse it can take weeks to have spare parts transported from a major capital city to a outback town, and obviously you do not want to have too much time off from work.

Todays opal tip - Safety above ground as there are many dangerous objects and particularly shafts and open cut mines, if you are walking around fostering for opal particularly after the rain as it helps to reflect the opal visually to the people which are fostering. Please walk slowly turns slowly because if a cover has been let off the top of a opal shaft then it is a extremely long way down if you fall, or so there are lots of old machinery that is laying around rusting which has very sharp and dangerous edges.

Todays opal tip - Signs for black opal visually underground, you are looking for fault lines vertical horizontal or mixed clay colours in the face of yourclaim which we call a blow, another good sign are dog stones which are sandstone chunks or small rocks possibly carrying black nobby, obviously you can still have seem in the floor or where ever it is carrying, the roof is usually your best chance to find Opal so please do not work fast if you are finding colour be patient and do not break your earnings. And last of all steel ban is considered a good sign and if colour forms on the steel ban then you have a very long gemstone indeed .

Todays opal tip - looking for signs of opal obove grounds there is a couple of different theories on this particular subject, in today's modern world technology plays a big part many opal mining companies perfer to use technology when it comes to exploration for black opal with a drilling rig or truck, bringing the Semple's from deep under the ground to the surface for quick analysis looking for signs of nobby or colour and even fossils. The other method is the old-fashioned way of designing and making a few divning rods and start divining looking for large fault lines that are not visible above ground with the naked eye, and this is certainly a very cheap way of prospecting compared to the price of diesel and the maintenance of a truck.

Todays opal tip - The technology of diesel blowers which can remove opal clay the fastest of all underground technology. The blower is set up above ground and consist of a six cylinder diesel engine this technology is very diesel hungry, with a underground hydraulic digger you can move large amounts of clay which is sucked up by pipes by the blower and delivered into your truck ready for washing and processing.

Todays opal mining tip - Opal cut mining at lightning Ridge, this method of mining is only used when a Opal lease has been mined out and is too dangerous to work underground safely. Before undertaking this method you must be very sure that the claim was producing high-quality opal and there still is sufficient amount of clay that could possibly be carrying more opal. As open cut mining is the most expenses method of extracting opal I can only insist that you do your homework well or otherwise you can spend a lot of money . You can do a lot of prospecting with that type of finances and work very economically working a conventional shaft Underground method.

To days opal topic as we have talked a lot about prospecting for opal and different methods of mining and the different types of machinery used, then we must talk about how to process the opal clay which could be possibly carrying opal. Ok the clay is either in your truck or it has been dumped ready for processing most miners use a large cement agitater they remove the agitater from a cement mixer truck either a 6 m or 9 m barrel. The barrel along with a six or four cylinder diesel motor must be mounted on a permanent site and you must lease the position on a dam site which is supplied by underground bore water. Attached to the inlet of the bowel you must have a hydraulic vayer belt to lowed the opal clay from the truck into the agitater ready for washing. Obviously you need a small pump at the water's edge to pump from the dam to the agitater which has been modified having on the opposite sides 2 feet square holes cut out and a fine high grade steel mesh fitted firmly.

To days opal topic as our last subject we talked about processing opal clay, when all the clay has been clearly washed out of the agitater barrel make sure you turn the engine down so it is running very slow as there will only be solids left in the agitater and you do not want to break any opal in the barrel. Put the agitater into reverse and naturally all the material will come up and out and run down the chute to your processing table, make sure you have a good sorting table with access to water and I cannot emphasise tailing out should be done extremely slowly" patient is a virtue" you do not want to miss a gem black multicolour nobby this is where a lot of businesses make a huge mistake , many people noodling often come some days after looking for what you have missed. And please this final job you must do in the middle of the day where there is plenty of light and sun available good luck hope you find gem quality multicolour black opal because you will be very rich, wisely invested you can live off your interest for the rest of your life.

Todays opal tip - Sorting through the opal tailling's this truly is the most important job. Mostly because it is so easy to miss seeing colour amongst the nobbys when you are sorting through this final stage of mining, it is important to have a half inch waterholes handy by to keep the tailings very clean and wet and you must roatate the nobbys looking for colour the whole time, on a sunny day and if you follow this procedure and have patience then if you are working country which is carrying nobbys then you will certainly see and not miss any opal if you follow my advice. After collecting all the colour and nobbys that you would like to crack open head back to the cutting office. Some people like to have a small tumbler which they will then rewash for a hour or so before pinching and cracking the sides of the nobbys which are not carrying opal colour just to make sure there is not any colour carrying inside the nobbys before discarding this material may be keeping a view very black nobbys for doublets material, and then you are ready to orientate and rub down the opal.

Todays opal tip - {How to study rough black opal } - first step is to Separate the colour from the non colour. All the black potch I would snip with title pinches around the edges of the material just to make sure there is no colour inside. Ok now down to the business orientation there is only one advice lots of practice on inexpensive low-grade opal parcels and of course it always helps if you can purchase a good book on the particular type of opal you wish to learn on. And of course there are also CDs and VCRs tapes available these days, and down the track you will become more comfortable cutting and polishing becomes fluid and of course you can never stop learning about orientating. It is certain that you will be a lot more professional and move into more expensive parcels.

Todays opal tip - {Dimensions of the opal drive} - obviously the thinner the drive is the safer it will be, it does not particularly matter about the height of the roof as long as you can get easy access to the roof as this is usually your best chance of finding Opal under the sandstone between that and that clay level. And of course you will find pockets of nobby opal and even seen in the floor of your opal claim, there are many methods of working safe underground if you need to have wide drives then you can use wood supports and props which are readily found around the opal leases. I would recommend the Australian cypress pine which has great strength and is quite tolerant to water , many people like to leave the bottom section of their drives and dig wider around the roof this method is no different to removing all the clay and having wide drives it will get more dangerous as the clay drys and starts cracking.

Todays opal tip - open cut mining it is always a great start if there is already a few opal leases that have been cut already adjoining your claim. As this allows you to remove all your benches and have them processed, what do I mean by benches the government department that controls the industry has strict guide lines you must follow ,every 6 metres you must leave a two meter squared bench. It also makes it a lot easier if you have somewhere to dump your over burden and a big hole in the ground close by is a great place to refill.

Open cut mining - about open cut mining there are many factors you have to consider in these modern times particularly requirements of government mineral resources department there is a contract you have to fulfil in the black Opal industry around the opal feels of lightning Ridge New South Wales. The good old days are well and truly gone, where you jest when for your life and only hat to consider yourself and your mates. These days you must leave the landscape in the same condition prior to open cutting, over burden must be replaced even if the farmer who owens the western plane grazing lease would appreciate you leaving it open as a dam, and being the driest continent in the world this is not acceptable by the department. Revegetation of the top of the claim is also very important the top soil must be replaced, and a number of native trees must be replanted to its original landscape.

Todays opal tip - Tailing out the Opal at the end of the week now this is not just a job this is a avenger, you never know what you might find besides some colour, fossils like seashells and maybe a dinosaur bone or two. Make sure there is plenty of Sun and clean water available as you do not want to miss any opal colour, as you need to know where in the claim is the best location to keep working and washing the soil clay, as it is very expensive to keep washing dead clay soil that is not carrying colour. Please keep your eyes open because if you find colour this often indicates to open this area up and have a good look before moving on to another area in the claim.

Processing the opal Clay after you have retrieved a large amount of opal Clay and have bought it to the surface, you either stockpile it on your claim and wash it at a later date. or if the clay is being directly dropped into the back of your truck , then off we go to the agitater which is usually a 7 yard or 9 yard cement mixer which has been taken off the truck and placed on a permanent site on a ball which is a deep underground water source which comes to the surface boiling hot and is gathered in a large dam to cool down. Most of these balls you lease a small site from the owener which is often the farmer who has the Western Plains agricultural lease. Some dam sites are also owen by the lightning Ridge mining Association .

Opal washing and processing as you have left your claim and driven the truck to the dam site, reverse it up to the vayer belt which will load it into the agitater. After applying large amounts of water and agitating the opal Clay do not forget to turn it down slow after most of the clay has turned into sludge and run out of the agitater through the mesh that have been cut on either side of the agitater, as you do not want any opal smashed as there will only be solid material left in the barrel like dogs stones and some sandstone from the roof of the claim and also a rock or too.

Opal orientation first you must pinch with a title cutter the outside of the black nobby, just to make sure there is no colour inside before disregarding any material . Orientation is the most important step in the cutting and polishing of opal, the trip to orientation opal rough is practising on a lot of cheap and low grade rough material for many many years and then you can start processing more expensive opal. The rubbing down and shaping is not all that difficult, to polish the opal can be difficult for some people as this is the finished product that buyers will be looking at.

To days topic is open cut mining first apply once you have received approval for a section 22 open cut method of mining. There are many requirements you must fulfil first step remove and keep topsoil, every 6 m you remove opal burden you must leave a 90° step, in this case you really need quite a large area if you want to look at the second level of opal carrying clay. And the most difficult part is for no reason you may leave the claim un-rehabilitated, all the over burden must be replaced and top soil replaced back before trees must be replanted and established.

To days opal topic buying rough rubs and cut stones, most of the buyers come to lightning Ridge some have shops others own homes , and many stay at motels or friend's homes. If they have a sign out the front stating that they are buying either rough or rubs or maybe both then jest walk in with your recent find and wait your turn to show them . It will be up to you and the schools you have will determine the money that you come out with, obviously a town like lightning Ridge gem usually always sells at a good price it is only the low grade cut stones and commercial stones that take some wheeling and dealing to obtain the best outcome

To days opal topic is buying opal, rough in particular driving out on to the opal feels is always a good way to start, its always best to drive out to the most recent rush and of course the business is done in hard currency cash, I have seen new buyers put large signs on their cars which will in turn attract miners with rough, it is usually a casual business transaction a miner will jest say to buyers are you interested in opal rough, and the answer back usually is not at the moment or you will often hear from experience middlemen the reply, maybe I will have a look if you do not mind. Obviously then it is up to you if you have a lot of schools in purchasing rough opal then take your time and have a good look. The miner in most cases will have a price he is asking and well the rest is between you and him to talk business.

Buying Opal especially rough parcels out on the Opal feels, please do not insult the primary producer as he works very hard and will go for a long time between finding his last parcel and his recent parcel. And he might get very angry if you knock his opal, and as you are a long way from any law enforcement officer you could be very uncomfortable driving back to the hospital to have some treatment. A very good softener up is to have a dozen cold beers in a mini fridge in the car, this often relaxes the miner and puts you in a better light.

Buying rough opal this is the most difficult to master , the best buyers are usually opal cutters who had spent many years cutting and orientating parcels of opal. You must realise that black opal, is very different from crystal opal, and Queensland bolder opal again is different to cut you need different types of cutting machinery. And there are many different bolder opal fields around the State of Queensland and they are all a bit different. Please remember the more parcels of rough opal you get to see before cutting and polishing, and of course the finished product will let you know how successful your judgment is and if you are improving or not.

Buying opal rubs, tools of the trade a very good set of magnified glasses and experience on the subject along with your hard currencies preferably Australian dollars. Experience counts here a good hard look make sure when the rub is cut and polished ,rule you lose much size, some very fine scratches made not come out of the face of the opal therefore you will have two cut to stones, in stead of one and if the opals are quite small then they are down valued particularly under one carat.

Buying cut and polished opal's this is not a easy perfession unlike sapphires ,rubies and diamonds. These particular gemstones if they are all facet a particular way and are all the same dimensions and clarity then it is not so difficult to price. Unlike opal you very rarely have a matching pair for examples to opal's shaped the same either symmetrical or free-form. And it is nearly impossible to find to opal's with the same pattern and colour play and of course matching weights. This is why opal buyers are very rare it is truly a specialist profession, they also need to keep up with the International price and also of the domestic feel price.

The famous 3 mile Opal feel of lightning Ridge was the richest area and the highest quality of all the black opal mining areas, great news the large open cut in the middle of the 3 mile is being fenced by the Department which controls all of the leases in the lightning Ridge and surrounding districts. They're all so will be built a $8 million fossil museum underground about 100 m from the famous open cut mines where the European settlers first discovered the most beautiful and rare pattern black opal, the Harlequin pattern as this is a spectacular tourist attraction and you can clearly see the profile of the different clay and sandstone types, and also all the old shafts, the department has excepted the proposal of a government heritage site because of its rare and unique history.

Todays opal topic detecting opal traces underground, the opal prospector is looking for signs of poch rich is a selector mineral that opal often forms on, there are many colours from jet black, black light black, grey and white. The nobby producing opal country can carry poch in three usual locations the roof of the claim victory in the clay face and sandstone roof is your best chance, you also have another chance around the middle of the face you are working, and sometimes seen poch running in seams along the floor of the mineral lease. Other signs dog stones which are hard small lumps of sandstone in the clay face which can have nobby and poch inside and mixed around the dog stones.

There are many signs you can follow if you are a opal lover steel ban running through the face, layers of different colour clay bands of colour being made up of colours such as dark orange, light brown's dark browns and yellow and white. You are also looking for fault lines large slides and faults running through the profile of the face, please remember when these claims dry out after time you can have pieces becoming dangerous. And why we are on the subject of safety, greasy back slides are dangerous sometimes and they do not need to dry out, the answer to keeping it safe, do not open the drive up to wide that you are working along and this will keep the claim in tacked and strong.

Other signs of opal underground and tools of the trade for prospecting, a lightweight pick and it is always best to have a prospecting generator left a few metres away from the entrance to the shaft so that your air does not get contaminated by the generator and you will have power underground, just run a few electric leads down the shaft because good strong powerful lighting is the secret to visually detecting signs and traces of opal. And remember a good ear when you are gouging is very handy indeed, as the opal may be millimetres or inches inside the clay and the only way to detect this is with a good ear as opal is silica, and sounds like scratching on glass when you scrape it with the peak, sell listen and take it easy when you hear this noise as you do not want to hit it too hard after you have detected this glassy sound you must work slow than to avoid breaking or chipping the uncut opal nobby.

Prospecting underground today's modern technology is not the answer forget about computers, metal detectors such as a electric gold detector, as opal is silica and is not a metal this is why the metal and gold detector is out of the question. Patience is a virtue slow and cautiously wander about, other signs are blows, what is a blows in the profile of the clay you will see a extreme mixture of colours splattered with pieces of sandstone and maybe nobby and opal material, these blows travel all the way to the surface usually another way to describe it as you are looking at the face of the claim where you are working stand back and visualise a large painting hanging on the wall and in the middle is a trolling whirlpool, mixtures of colours and solid material is being trolled around. This is what a blow looks like underground and is a very good chance particularly in my case small blows usually carry the opal.

Todays opal topic is on the subject of prospecting for black opal by the use of modern technology. The drilling rig the best vehicle for this work is a dual axle action track at the back of the vehicle, with a differential on the front stealing wheels also. This means you have a four-wheel-drive truck with a 8 inch drill bit reach will allow you to do or to the death of about 80 feet, you must be able to store plenty of water so you can process the clay from the opal levels as you will then be left with only solids in your small tumbler, you can then inspect the tailings four any signs of potch or colour and please make sure this is done in fall sunlight and a little bit of extra water being sprayed on the tailings for final expections to make sure you do not miss a chance at finding what you are looking for as I know personally of people which have missed seeing opal during droughts, as they could not get access to water and along came a specker after rain had fallen and viewing the previous drillers work found red on black after two years work of this claim he and his partner was worth $5 million Australian each.

To days Opal topic is the mining method of open cut mining, this method you will never miss a patch of Opal. The main reason to open cut a mining lease at lightning Ridge is only because it has been heavily work conventionally by men underground. If the claim was also quite a valuable claim and it is getting too dangerous and difficult to send men underground any more. Then the perfect method is opened cutting, as long as you owen the lease and when you apply for a section 22 at the mining registry office you will have to fulfil all the requirements, firstly you must apply at the local Court for approval.

Opal washing after all the clay has been thoroughly washed out of the barrel put the barrel into reverse which will bring all the solids to the top, and it will slowly run down the ramp for inspection by the mining team. Remember lots of water and you must have sunshine, collect all the nobby and opal material ready to take back to the cutting room, many guys like to retumble for a hour or two very slowly in a mini tumbler. This will make it extremely easy to identify the opal as every think will be extremely clean after this double processing of the nobby and opal material, you are ready now to orientate the opal first disregard all unwanted material now you are ready for rubbing down the rough material.

To days Opal theory - low cost mining specking around the Opal feels, which is the term used for people that prospect by going through other people's waste material. And some people do make a living out of this type of Opal production, it is always better to work on a clear sunny day looking for potch that might be carrying colour. And there is no better way to find Opal by this method then to go out after heavy rain as the clay and dust has been washed off any Opal material and the colour is so much easier to see with the naked eye.

To days Opal theory - gouging which is the term use for people that prospect claims that are no longer leased by any mining company. And as the claim has already been open up by mechanised machinery, it is now possible for people with a small gouging pick to lower some hanging lattice , this is a very inexpensive and cheap way to look for colour by chipping away underground looking for Opal trace that the previous miners might had missed. And of course if you find Opal you will naturally head up to the government mining Department and re-lease the claim into your name.

To days Opal tip - Terms used in the black Opal industry around the town of lightning Ridge New South Wales Australia. { Opal trace } this is the term used in the industry among the professionals, and it means fossil material-nobbys any colour potch - and of course Opal colour. Dog Stone's this is the term again used by miners which relates to sandstone of different shapes usually about the size of a man's hand. These dog stones can carry nobbys which can be carrying colour.

To days Opal theory - sorting through the Opal tailings ? What do we mean by tailings, tailings are the solid materials that are left at the end of the week in your tumbler or processing plant. Your processing plant usually is a 7 or 9 yard cement mixer and if you can process two 8 yards trucks a day then at the end of the week you will have a large amount of solid material left in the agitator barrel. The Opal Clay is a fine clean potting Clay which will turn to silt and run-off through the mesh plates in the side of the barrel of your agitator everytime it rotates, and naturally you have a water flow running constantly in the drum.

Today's Opal theory - is a continuation from yesterdays Opal theory. Processing the tailings I cannot emphasise how important this stage in the Opal business is. All the hard work is done and if there is Opal in the tailings then do not miss any colour, the secret is to slowdown work in full sunlight and have plenty of water as the Opal is rolling down the chute onto the expection table, slowly rotate the Opal nobbys and make sure they are washed clean of clay for good viewing. All good-looking nobbys should be taken home for further viewing and to pinch the corners with a hand-held title cutter to view the inner part of the nobby just in case there was Opal forming inside the nobby.

Today's opal tip - a continuation from yesterday's theme. We've talked about different

Types of Opal and their location in Australia . Today we will talk about the different types of Opal and their qualities, first of all we must talk about the rarest , the most famous, and the most gorgeous of all Opal the { Black Opal } what can you say stunning, mind blowing, out of this world like a comet in out of space it is a one of the kind. Queensland boulder opal usually loll grade compared to black Opal and crystal Opal, there are still some gem quality pieces among the huge amount of commercial grade Queensland boulder opal which is on the market, South Australia Coober Pedy Opal the largest suppliers of Opal in the world mainly white Opal and crystal Opal.

Today's opal tip - Queensland boulder opal fields this is mostly open cut mining I would advise the use of excavators and a 20 tonne minimum machine. The bulldozers were originally used for this particular type of Opal mining, unlike modern times the 20 tonne excavator is much more economical and is a must more useful machine as it can also lolled the material into a truck unlike a bulldozer you will need a second machine to do this particular type of work. Bulldozers are more expensive as you are pushing a huge weight of soil and also moving a huge machine at the same time and fuel is getting more expensive. Unlike excavators they are working from a stationary position and are only moving the upper part of the machine you will clearly notice the fuel bills are down.

Today's Opal tip - the locations to find different types of Opal in Australia, Lightning Ridge is the place to look for the rarest of all Opal, the famous Australian Black Opal the gem quality is absolutely dazzling and is the most gorgeous of all the Australian opals. Coober Pedy is the home of whit